Mittwoch, 17. Februar 2016

Raffa

Boudica

Hello Jungle people,

today finally Boudica's Step by Step will see the light of day.
She waited long enough we'd say. During last Tuesday's Tutorial voting  it was easy to see that she would win. Thanks to everyone who voted and decided.

Without further blabla we'll get it on now.
Roman is taking over with the article in a sec and we hope you enjoy!




FOREWORD
Allright. Well this article is a step by step through the process and progress I have made painting this beautiful sculpt by spanish sculpting god Pedro Fernandez Ramos.

The box already made me hungry for warpaint

The model itself was distributed via Origen Art.
A small spanish company, with very cool unique models, but sadly the company closed in the end of 2015. Rumors say that Boudicca will be available from somewhere else in the future. Good news actually.

Great cast in grey resin


The bust itself is truely beautiful.
Not only the women sculpted is magnificant in her beauty, it is also the expression of the whole body language on this piece. Majestic, powerful and sad were my interpretations. So I decided to put her in her historical context and did read several novels, articles and stuff on her. I decided to put her in the middle of the Battle of Watling Street, where her army was defeated, just in that right moment. If you want to read more about the history lesson on her, please follow this link.

I have to somehow excuse for the difference in photo quality in this step by step. 
Some shots were made with my digital camera, some were made with my mobile's and some were made with Raffa's really good big camera.  If you prepare articles on your own too you might know how hard it is to keep track if you are in the middle of the painting process.


THE PAINTWORK
Following I will take you on a journey through painting her up the way I did. I let you know my thoughts, my steps and my ideas. If you like what you can read here and/or if you have the feeling this can provide help to your own painting please consider a small thank you in form of a jungle donation. For a coffee, a beer or a candy. Always remember, these articles take much time to be prepared and written.

Allright.

First step 
I used a Vallejo's green primer to prime the whole bust with my airbrush. Why green you might ask?
Well, for me green was the main athmospheric color I saw in my vision of her. Fighting on a non-cloudy day on a green plain of grassland. With this first step I already set my athmosphere and would stick to it. For example doing a rather warm athmosphere on a miniature you can already prime it in warm tones, same for cold tones.

I do not exactly remember the exact primer name. It was green and I know there are many, but honestly it works with all kind of greens to set the athmosphere. Do not stick yourself too much to color names if you want to learn about painting with colors.

After the green was set I used Masking Putty to cover all clothing.
I knew I would keep the clothing green after all. I explained using different masking options via the article: Masking Options.

Boudica covered in Masking Putty

Next step was using the airbrush on top of this again. This time I decided for a basic skin color and used Vallejo, as I remember right it was Brown Sand, added a little more yellow to it to have it more yellowish, added a little more red to have it a little more orange, added a little bit of white to the mix to have it brighter, added a tiny drop of blue to it to make it less saturated and finally added a small drop of green to it to stay in my overall athmospheric color. I mixed this from several tones on my wetpalette and applied it via the airbrush in thin, fine layers. About 5 to have all skin areas covered.

I painted the basic colors to the hair and the wood and leather parts. You can already see a small change in shadows in light on the hair or spear shaft. I did this while painting the basic colors, just added a tiny drop of black to the areas while painting them up. Black to metal parts.

Basic color preparations


I really love Pepa Saavedra's beautiful version of this bust and as you can see on the next photo I made my homework: I prepared prints on my workbench for inspiration. Pepa's work, some inspirational red-haired woman.

I do not like to waste my brain in the early beginnings of a paintjob to thoughts that do not fit in this stage of the progress. I do not think about how to create a beautiful blending now. I want to paint. So I took a more brighter green, that I mixed from a yellow and blue, more blueish to keep it cold, added a little red to it to make it less saturated and added white to have it brighter.

 I used this color as a glaze now and used one of my brushes I usually use for painting thin lines (good tip, good color flow!). Then I began to paint thin vertical lines to the clothing. In several layers, the glaze was not too thin, I was already able to see the first lines, then I painted more on top on areas that I would be hit by zenithal light.

I used the same color as a glaze to place some texture to the leather parts.
Just a simple prep, nothing finished yet.

fabric texture in preparation

I used a skintone again, still the one that I mixed, but this time with less green in it and started to bring back the forehead area, nose, cheekbones. I left the greenish area on her lower face. Used red and orange thin glazes to paint her middle face area. Her fist holding the spear was packed with several red glazes. If you use glazes thin you have to appyl them more often. I used some of my basic mixed skintone, added more red, more white to it to paint to her lips with an even brighter line to demonstrate the light situation. Still all is sketching.

I also increased the texture on the leather belts with more stibbling brighter tones there, painting a line here and there or intensing a crack that the work so far made visibile.



I painted her eyes. They were painted at this stage to see the character rather quick.

Intense cracks and texture on the leather


Ok, it was time to bring some more colors and a sketch of the light situation to her hair. The hair is sculpted amazingly good, but I already knew it will be a pain in the head to paint it up. I went with some more orange in my red to set first highlight areas. I say "areas" because I did not start with small highlight lines or such. I covered surfaces, prepared large areas for further work.

I also painted her eyebrows. I recommend to do this rather early as eyebrows are very important to a human painting. Without they look strange, very strange.

I also did put a wash of Army Painter's Soft Tone on top of my leather textures to pull them together.


I increased the light situation on her skin. I did not paint a lot into the shadows, as the big issue with female faces is: They are smooth. Male faces have hard shapes, females not. If you paint too strong shadows into a females face they will look dirty, weird, old and not real. My oppinion.

So I painted more into the highlights and used different colors for different face areas. Also dropped some on her arm and fist.

Painted a really dark undercoat for my bronze metal parts by using a mix from black and gold.


Here you can see the skincolors used. If you look closer you can spot where each one was used.


Not to forget the arm.

The wash pulled togehter my leather texture at this stage:


Something I had to do, but wasn't convinced of my skills was painting that tartan pattern. I can tell you I tried to avoid it for a long time, but then I just had to. I took inspiration from Pepa's work and decided to copy it, but copy it my way. Rough sketch first, details if needed later on.

The hair recieved really dark areas too by using several applications of Army Painter's Strong tone.
Oh how this hair made me already nuts.


To explain what I did there:

1. Basic surface
2. Using darker green to draw pattern. Take care of the drapery and think. I managed to be good in some areas, failed in some others in my eyes.
3. Painted the rough pattern in bright and dark areas, but using lines again to show the fabric texture
4. Cleaned it all up with the colors I used
5. Used brigther tones to paint the light situation to each pattern
6. Used Army Painter's Strong tone via airbrush and sprayed a thin layer on top to pull it together



In the end I increased the fabric texture once again with using the colors again for the lighter areas. I remember doing these steps several times to make it look like I wanted it to look. While I did step 6 some uncontrolled drops of the wash hit the clothing here and there. I did not care as I knew that I wanted to make her dirty in the end.

I also painted up her sword grop and added it.

Via Pinterest I found many red-haired woman and most of them were freckled. Ok I told myself. Let's freckle with reddish skintone dots and my brush. Loved this step.






... but thought it was too much so I went back to my skintones again and painted the freckles to look more natural instead of looking like red dots. I used glazes of my skintone varieties for this. Added a red glaze here and there to make the face look more alive.

I reworked the leather areas again and repeated steps that I have done before. Bright again, darker with a wash or a glaze. Did work on the metal parts and added a light situation to the metals. Interesting for you might be that you can find my green athmospheric color in all of it.



Worked the same on the arm.

Dot, Dot, Dot ...

Well If I would have known how crazy I might go with the warpaint and blood I would have saved some time on the freckles, but I always say keep it real, which means: In real her warpaint would be on top of her freckled face, eh?

Next steps:

- More orange to the hair, followed by more orange/sandtone yellow
- Blue Warpaint. I decided to paint it like the real thing. Using strong blue and a bigger brush I put it where I wanted it. I used a brighter blue to show the difference in the light situation even in the warpaint.
- Increased the light situation on the fabrics, both. With the use of brighter lines.
- Added blood


For the blood I went carefully, even it does not look this way. I used masking putty again to save some areas from accidents that can happen.I used GW's Blood for the Blood God for this. She looked funny.


You can see the blood in detail and warpaint


Well, in the end I can remember I spent sometime to clean up here and there, making some highlight areas more intense and stand out, but this was only detail work here and there. Every minute spent is worth the time. Finished she looked like this - bloody and gory.

The way my imagination was of her in that moment.







I hope you liked the insight into my painting mind. You can find more photos of her on Putty&Paint.
She is also on Sale, if you are interested to make this paintjob of mine yours!
Contact me via: jarhead(at)massivevoodoo.com

Have a great weekend!
If you got any questions let me know.
Of course feedback to the article is welcome.

Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes
Roman


Read More
Raffa

Imperial Fist Spacemarine

Good Morning Jungle,

today it's Roman with a finished miniature again.
He painted up a Space Marine. Yes, right a Space Marine. While Roman did not take any attempt to touch a GW miniature at all after the Games Day 2013 and his ultrasized Tyranid/Space Marine Diorama until today.

It was just about the time to paint one of these again. Roman said it is amazing how familiar you can get with the shapes of a Space Marine, even you did not paint one for ages. For him it was a true fun paintjob and he let his brush and colors lose.

Roman also prepared a step by step for this guy, which you might find in the next tutorial voting.
If you are not aware yet: Massive Voodoo is running the "Year of the Painter 2" and on every Tuesday it is up to you to vote for the article you want to read at the end of the week. If you did not vote this week: here you go!

We hope you like him?


Imperial Fist Space Marine
____________________________________________________
Games Workshop, 28 mm










Keep on happy painting, Jungle People!
_______________________________________________________________________________
This fella is - beside many other cool projects by the Massive Voodoo artists - on sale - check it out here:

Read More

Mittwoch, 17. März 2010

Raffa

Paint a Space Marine head - Testpost


Hello everyone,




time for another step by step, this time i'll paint a veteran space marine head in the colors of the ultramarines chapter.
The finest warriors of the galaxy!

Hmmm, while i was looking around for stuff needed for this tutorial i noticed my bits box was kinda empty...  no more space marine helmet head.
Now we start painting the base layer with Ultramarine Blue.
Leave spaces or thin lines so you know where to paint the shadows later.
Ultramarin Blue color pigments got shipped over the ocean to europe in the ancient world,that's where the name comes from. (lat. ultramarinus = "over the ocean").
Read More

Dienstag, 2. Februar 2010

Raffa

Tutorial - basic thoughts of painting True Metallic Metal (TMM)


Aloa,

this article will bring you my thoughts of painting True Metallic Metal (TMM), which means painting metal on miniatures while using only colours with metallic pigments in it. The other variant you can paint your metal up is called the Non Metallic Metal (NMM) and the future will for sure bring up a tutorial of this for sure on MASSIVE VOODOO.

This tutorial will start from my Introducing thoughts over real basic techniques, quick options while working with metallics so you can easily realize those on your model and the article for sure goes up to options where you really can spent a lot of time on. In the end i hope every question will be answered with this tutorial if still some may appear - simply ask in form of a comment. For sure this is not the perfect way or the "Have to way", it is simple the way of the banana addicted guy writing this.

It is not aimed to some special metal, like "How to paint up gold?" or "How to paint chainmail?", it is more aimed to understand how you can work every metal tone you wish for and understand light and shadow on metals. Further articles will describe metals in special variants.

For sure you must chose if the miniatures you paint up are for the use on the gaming table or being showcased afterwards. When painting up a hundreds of spearman i would not perform high end quality metals on every spear tip. I guess you got what i mean.

Introducing thoughts

Always get some references... :)

If you got an area which shall be a metal piece, like a sword or armoury it is always important to get hold of some real inspirational material or at least some material on photos. I did collect some links over the years i want to share with you in here - go have a look at different metals and try to see how the light and shadow works on them - we mostly get to paint metal on armoury or weaponry at our miniatures here are some examples of these objects:


http://www.jacamart.de/bilder/schwerter.jpg
http://www.bueker-gmbh.de/pics/l/alias2/V21-excalibur-king-arthur-u-2-streitaexte-deko-.jpg

As you might see, light and shadow works different on metallics than it does on other materials like clothes or skin. Metall always reflects the light very intensive, hard edges from light areas to dark areas, for sure depending on the direction your light comes in at the area and for sure depending on how the metal area is standing in that light source. For sure it is also very important what metal object you are looking at.

Here are some examples of different metal objects reflecting light very intensive showing what i have mentioned above:

http://www.schwertshop.de/media/images/501100b.jpg

Also polished metalls reflect the sorrounding areas, again some more examples to this:

http://www.kleine-fotoschule.de/dateien/bilder/Reflektionen/Fanny.jpg

Now this is a lot of information and inspiration. Please keep in mind that we are still painting miniatures and not hyperrealistic things. In the next steps i want to share with you my thoughts i've made over the years when it comes to painting TMM on miniatures. From the simple thougths to the complex ones.




What colours i use for painting metallics

As i am always making experiments all the time i have worked my TMM in different ways over the last years. For sure i use a lot of different colours for it. I am sometimes buying new ones to test them and if i like the way the results end up i stay with them. Mostly i use Games Workshop Citadel colours, especially mostly Mithril Silver and some metal tones from Vallejo Model Colour, like Oily Steel (70865), Bronze (70998) and Gold (70996). Also washes from Citadel are very nice to bring in a coloury touch and shadows to your metals. Also i love smoke from Vallejo Model Colour 70939 for an afterwards shading or even "in between the steps shading".

Always remember that the colour of your metal (bronze, gold, steel, etc.) can influance your complete colour scheme on your model. I did stop thinking in painting pots to realize my metallics. I have learned for myself to mix the perfect tone i want to have by bringing in some "usual/normal" colours.

For example i want to show you something i did also in a step by step article over here - i only worked with Mithril Silver here on my wet palette and did mix in every tone i want to get different results (if it is too bright mix in a brush tip of black):


A = pure Mithril Silver
B = MS / Ice Blue
C = MS / Hawk Tourquise
D = MS / Camo Green
E = MS / Dark Angel Green
F = MS / Schorched Brown
G = MS / Deadly Nightsade
H = MS / Space Gray Wolves
I = MS / Snakebite Leather
J = MS / Liche Purple
K = MS / little Chaos Black
L = MS / more Chaos Black
Not shown: Gold can be made of from Snakebite Leather + MS, just for addition.

With this i just want to show you how easy you can change up your colour palette, even in metallics to achieve way more tones coming from one basic colour (Mithril Silver in this case). For sure you can use every other metal tone to start from. Meanwhile i do this often starting from Oily steel fro example. Have a go at it and find out for yourself what you like the most.
If you do so, then make sure that the lot of the metallic tone is always higher then the lot of the normal colour as if not you are stealing the metallic look of the colour.

Important: When working with colours that have metallic pigments in it, always use 2 different glasses of water to clean your brushes. One for normal colours and one for those with metal pigments in it. You don't want to have metal pigments in your skintone next time, really you will really dislike this accident.

Simple painted metallics

First i have learned that only painting something metallic doesn't mean it looks like metal. For example painting a sword only in mithril silver or Boltgun metal, will at last make it look silver. Now you got a silver sword, but when remembering the pictures/references above there is much more to it than only painting it with one colour.

A simple way to bring some depth and variety to your metal colour coming from the pot is by using washes on them. Here is a simple way to make this on 2 old Heroquest Chaos Warriors, basic metal tone of chainmail applied on the following picture:


Next step is a wash from badab black over the left one, Baal Red on the right one, both thinned with a drop of water.


Now i just switched the washes, Baal red on the left, Badab Black on the right.



After having the washes dried you may drybrush them with a brighter metallic tone to get more attention to the edges of the model and bring in some highlighted areas in




Now this is really very simple, but can bring fast results. Try to test around with different washes over your metallics for example also mixing different colours into it like a water thinned wash of Vallejo's Smoke with a tip of Regal Blue in it or something like that. There is no limit when it comes to testing.


Taking some more time at working on metallics

The way mentioned above is really something bringing fast results. For sure you can add more detailed attention to the areas shown above afterwards. There is no limit on your time spend on a miniature.

While we look back at our reference material from above...
http://www.aeiou.at/aeiou.photo.data.image.fvw2/fvw2125h.jpg
http://www.bueker-gmbh.de/pics/l/alias2/V21-excalibur-king-arthur-u-2-streitaexte-deko-.jpg
... you might see that painting up good looking metal on your miniatures will need a bit more work than the fast version. If you are up to this, then check the pictures again and you might get the intense light/shadow situation working on metals i have mentioned high above.

With knowing this you can now go studying how light brakes on metals and edges and stuff. In this Tutorial i will not go that far as still another light tutorial is missing in the Tutorial Section. The science of light and what it does to different materials will be a part of another tutorial coming in the future. I want to show you 2 ways on how to spent more time on your metallics and make a good looking result for the moment without bringing your brain to shut down. At this point we focus on dark areas lying beside really bright areas when looking at metals. I hope you get me this far with the shown references.

Working from a bright metal to dark metal

Here i have described how to work from a bright colour to the shadows and from the shadows to the brighter parts, you have to scroll a bit as far as i can remember. As for the go with bright tones to dark tones i will use this following guy, Götz from Berlichingen from the game "Helldorado" in 28 mm, whom i did paint in the early year of 2009, upon a white priming basecoat as i had no black primer at hand.

The basecoat on the model's armour has been Mithril Silver with a tip of Hawk Tourquise. It says the same on the picture in german :)


As i want to have my light source on the model straight above, from top of it, I now did start to shade down the armour with a wash made from Vallejo's Smoke with a tip of Asurmen Blue into it. I'll try to leave some highlights still bright as you can see on this picture. The was has been thinned a bit with water to let it run in the deeper areas of the model. It says the same in german on the picture :)


Next go has been bringing out the lights again which faded a bit from the shading with pure Mithril Silver. I also did intense the shadows lying next to a bright area with glazes of Chaos black + Asurmen blue. Don't look at the sword at the moment, i'll explain this further on. As always it says the same in german on the picture what is written here.


A tip of ice blue has been added to the final lights with Mithril Silver to create some kind of illusion, showing the lighter parts reflecting the skyish blue. For the darker areas i have added a tip of Schorched Brown/Scab Red to the last shadows and glazed them into the armour parts showing the illusion of reflecting earth. The edges have been set out again with some pure Mithril Silver. If you still want to go a bit brighter you should take a chance with Plata from Vallejo Model colour, it is even more brighter than Mithril Silver. Armour finished at this point.



The sword

Taking advantage on the sword in the totally same way with the same colours used as mentioned for the armoury above. To bring out the effect of a sharpened sword with his core in the middle it has been best for me working my way in different directions in the upper area, one side bright, the area beside the bright one dark and doing the same downwards. Let's have a look - basecolour:


First step glazing in shadows:


Intensifing the shadows, bringing back the lights again, take care to pull your brush with the glaze in it in only the direction needed - Shadows: moving the brush to the shadow areas . Lights: moving the brush to the light areas. Shown here:


Cleaning up the mess in the middle with the tone in the middle and bringing in some glazes of red. I have to mention at this point that this model has been painted up a while ago and i did it leave it that way. Today i would say i could do this better from the experience i have gained. If you don't want your last glazes mess up everything like happened here with the red glaze mix in some metal tone in your wished coloured glaze (, red, in this case the bright metal tone) to not achieve a this matt finish and stay focused of the shiny metal parts in your colour.


As this model has been painted as a comission for the gaming table in the past i was done at this point and the finished model did look this way, sorry don't have a bigger picture anymore:


Here are some more examples done in this progress, just other colours used for the result - all worked from bright to dark, real old pictures included son don't mind the painting mistakes... ahh, we don't do mistakes in here, we have happy accidents :)

I hope you get what i mean with this more alive like work on your metal tones:





As you see it is not easy to take good photos of real painted metallics. Raffa and me did try to catch the variations you can bring into metallics in making a 360° view of a miniature and make a flash animation. That was a hell of an act but you maybe can see how true metallics can work on your model when holding it in your hand:






Working your metallics from dark to bright

Doing metallics completly in the different direction means only that i just switch the way i work myself from light to shadows into shadows to light. Using the same idea as above only switched. I hope everyone can follow my thoughts.

I do chose this way more often these days i have the feeling of having a better control where to bring my lights in the metallics by working slowly to them. If a funny mistake happens or i want more colour variations in my metallics i still am able to use a couple of glazes for this task. Starting off from a black bsaecolour on Carlos's fists here:


Next step has been mixing in a tip of Oiliy steel in the black to get some shiny metal over all the black, still really dark but my camera and lightning thing plays tricks on me, damm! Keep this as a second basecoat described with the colours above:


Next step has been concentrating on the further brighter areas with only using Oily steel, leaving the dark parts left in darkness, moving my brush with the brighter metal tone to the lighter areas, like described above in that sword thing - damm this camera thing, haha - sorry folks, trying to catch this from different angles, Carlos went a bit further meanwhile:


Ok, i'll give that up. Can't get good photos of this thing here, arrrrrgggghhhhh. I can only tell you that i have tried to bring the brighter metal tones in always smaller areas to the final light of using pure mithril silver to the brightest parts and the final edges and used some glazes of Oily steel + a tip of Chaos Black/Regal blue for bringing in some glazes to intense the dark areas again... i'll give it up. I hope no one gets mad at me and still can follow my brainless thoughts in here, sorry.

I tried to make some final result shots from different angles to give you a better understanding of what i have said above - it looks different from every other angle, ahhhhhhh, lovely in real, the horror on pictures, maybe i'll bring in some more colour contrast for the final go at Carlos's metals, we'll see... now Kong wants to climb a skyscraper and hunt down some wacky airplanes... arrrghhhh...





Nargh, nargh, nargh... ahh! Ok... i am waiting for your comments on this one, haha.

Final word

As mentioned above this article shall bring you some basic thoughts and methods how to work on your metallics. Specific goes on different metals will follow in the future in the article section when the muse guides to this path.

I hope you enjoy... Kong is still pissed of that camera/true metallics thing... argh!

Whatever keep on happy painting! That is what i'll do now to calm down :)

Regards
Roman

Read More