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Mittwoch, 17. Februar 2016

Raffa

Tutorial: A Miniature Painter's Water Jar


Good Morning ladies and gentlemen,

time for the results of this weeks tutorial voting.

MV's year of the painter 2 is proud to present to you the next article in line.
Many thanks to everyone who voted since this Tuesday.
We had twentysix votes for "Water Jar" and seventeen for "Boudica".

The winner is:

A Miniature Painter's Water Jar

Roman will now take care of the article.
We hope you enjoy!

You want to support us?
If you like to support the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale.

____________________________________________________________________________



Allright!

Jarhead writing about jars, eh?
Well this is not a common article I guess, but in many aspects we all do talk not enough about the water jars we use. Every Miniature Painter has one, or two or even three. I very often have one, but preparing this article reminded me to at least use two again.

The perfect example
Let's dive in the article by having a wonderful example how a workspace with water jars should look.
I say perfect example, because you have one water jar for the use of metallic colors, one for normal acrylics and even another one for dirty work if you are in need of water for your use of sculpting putty.

The water looks kinda fresh and will definatly help the painter through his project.



It can be even more, for example Steven wrote this in the comments:

"I think I'm probably over-doing it, but I use 6 jars. 3 for normal colours and 3 for metallics. Each time I clean my brush, I waggle it in each one in turn. The first jar is filthy, the second looks slightly murky and the third is clean. I also change the water at the start of each session and will sometimes change the water in the first jar part way through a session if it's looking like soup."

The reality
Very often the reality about water jars looks different. Sometimes they are the black sheep on my own table and I do not care about them too much. I can not tell you even why.

I took the opportunity to check the water jars in our studio without telling Bene, Raffa and Erik to see how far away from the perfect example reality can be.

My own, ok let's not talk about the clarity of the water.
No just don't. Some say it is the black hole on my workbench.

Raffa's. Dry as a desert.

Erik's. A dark brown black red or something.

At least Bene is working with two jars, one with a blueish touch and the other one looks like an oil accident. Maybe I should add a sculpture of a dying pelican to it to remind  him of health issues.

Allright, reality does look different. A lot.
Now to collect some information we just gathered.

Water Jar Material
You can use mostly everything you like as a water jar. Glass, plastic cups, ceramic cups, etc. and I know some painters who even have professional equipment as a water jar. They have some separation inside their jar to have all in one, like small different lakes. I do not recommend using metall cups or cans as these might rust over time.

Water Jar Water
In the recent examples you can see that most of the cups are filled with dirty water. Some are dirtier than others or have another color or do not have any water, but dirty dust. This happens to all of us as we paint.

Some recommend using only destilled water, others put some dish-liquid in it and others just paint with the water that comes out of the water tap. I can only speak for myself here and say I only use the water from the water tap.

Important is now that you make one thing clear to you:
Clean your water regularly!

Here is the why: 
Usually I do not care about my water when I paint dark shadows. It does not matter if my water looks very dark as I am up to paint dark shadows. But what if I want to paint clear, strong and bright highlights to a miniature? The following example "soup" will definatly influance your bright tone as you are taking out water from here. Even it is only a small percentage of grey that is influancing your color it will definatly make your paintwork more dessatured.


Next example: 
This blueish touch might also take influance on your color that you are painting.


You might find that blueish touch in all the colors you use. like a filter someone puts on top of your miniature:



Another important aspect is: 
Are you a brushlicker or not? If not you are on the safe side of health issues. If you do lick your brush once in a while during painting clean water is not only recommended it is a must. See the following example, we got some strange film on top of the water. This can be just dust from the room, oily film because you washed out strange and non-acrylic colors, varnishes or maybe it can also be resin dust that Raffa produces in our studio by making moulds and preparing casts.

All in all we can say it would not be healthy to paint with this nor lick your brush when you use such water.


Oli of the MV team can tell you a story about some health issues he had back some years. He was feeling sick once in a while and did not know the reason. He and a doctor found out that it was because of bacteria inside his painting water.

Water gets dirty with color quickly
After preparing for this article I do clean my jar at least once a week. Recently it even happens to me that I clean up my jar several times during a painting session. Why? Well, here is a test to show you how quick our painting water gets dirty.

Let's say we have some fresh water.
Ok this example is not fresh, I forgot to clean it properly and some yellowish-sandish color rests already influanced the water:


I am now throwing in a brush with black acrylic color on it as I have painted a plinth black.





The water quickly goes dark and becomes only water to paint shadows with.

This was just done in a second. Now imagine you paint for hours, days, weeks without cleaning your water jar. With every clean up of your brush you bring in remains of color pigments to your water. In the beginning they might color up your water, but after a while they settle down and go to the ground.

Cleaning your Water Jar
Usually when cleaning your water jar you empty it from water, flush it with fresh water and put some new water in it. The simple and fast way. Sometimes when you paint a lot and do not clean up your jar regularly this is not enough.

This is the ground of my water jar when flushed out. I call this pigment mud and it was swimming in my painting water, the water I put in my colors to mix, the water that is inside my brush when I lick it. Unhealthy, yes.

I have a friend - telling no names here - who was thirsty and really lazy to get a drink so he drank some of his painting water. He is still alive, but after the following photo I know I would never do it myself.


I really have to clean it properly, not only the bottom of the jar also the sides. You can see small pigment mud pieces everywhere. If I just clean the bottom and put fresh water in it I will have these pieces swimming around freely, ready to get mixed in my colors and ready to be painted to my miniatures.

Cleaning it properly is essential. 
You can do this with a sponge, tissues or a towel. Once in a while you can even put your jar into the dish-washer. Essential to your health and paintwork.


Seperated Painting Water
For example I also use two jars once in a while, when I paint a lot with metallic colors. The reason is simple. If I clean my brush with metallic pigments the water will get filled up with metallic pigments.
If I use the same water again for painting skin my miniature might have some metallic shine in his skintone. If you like it you can do it, if you don't, don't.

I used the jar with the lid for my metallics so I can remind myself of it, but well a lid is not a good idea I have learned. Somehow I had mould on the bottom side of the lid rather quick. I am no biologist but this made me never us that jar nor a jar with lid again. Really it looked like strange alien stuff. Use no lid!


As you can see on the upper photo I do not care too much about the outside of my jar, but that is presonal preference.

My water jar is loosing water over time?
You are right and that is very easy to explain: It's open and water evaporates slowly and additional to this everytime you put your brush in you take out some water. So this is not a bad issue and you can not help it.

Well, so far this is all I can tell you about a miniature painter's water jar. I really had my fun creating this basic topic article, but I think it is has some valuable information.

I hope you enjoy the article
- let me know your thoughts, ideas, experiences and tips via comments!

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I also had my fun creating funny tests in my water jar - these are just for inspiration and I am thinking about mixing some cocktails like this in the future:






Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes 
Roman
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Raffa

Tutorial: How to dust proof your Detolf cabinet

Hello Voodoo people,

this week's Tuesday Tutorial Voting brought a clear winner:
Mostly everyone wants to dust-proof his cabinet.



Many painters own at least one - the affordable Detolf cabinet by Ikea.
For the price of it, it is hard to beat. But it has one big flaw, it is not dust proof.
While the back of the cabinet is completely closed, the door has huge gaps on the sides.

This will lead to dusty miniatures over time, something that no one likes.

In this tutorial we will show you one way to make your Detolf dust proof.
Raffa now takes over! We hope you enjoy!

Support MV!
If you like to support the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale.
_______________________________________________________________________

What you need for one cabinet:
EITHER

- 3,5 m (~11,5 feet) of 7mm self-adhesive brush seal
- 35cm (~1,15 feet) of 4mm self-adhesive brush seal
OR

- 4 m (~13,1 feet) of 7mm self-adhesive brush seal
AND
- Cutter or scissors
- Pencil
- 30 minutes of time



Before we start, did you check out "Pimp my Detolf" and Peters "How not to assemble a Detolf" (always check for the direction of the metal parts on the side!) ?

Ok? Then let's start!
This is the self-adhesive brush seal you will need, you can get those from ebay or home depot stores.
they come in different sizes, for a perfect seal I will use two different heights, 7mm and 4mm.
They come in different colors, grey is pretty neutral.

We started applying the seal to the upper corner of the side and worked the way down to the bottom.

Go slowly and don't remove the back of the self adhesive on a too big area.
Put the seal right on the corner of the side glass wall.

 Almost there...

Now, cut the end of the first piece right in the corner where the glass meets the bottom using either a scissor or a cutter ( PLEASE TAKE CARE AND DON'T CUT YOURSELF! ).

Close the door and mark the edge of the door with a pencil.

It needs to be barely visible.

Also mark the edges of the metal parts on the left and right side, then apply the 4mm seal to the bottom, between the metal parts and along the line we just draw.
If you only want to use one kind of brush seal, you could also use 7mm seal slightly behind the door to seal it from the inside.
 
The top part of the door is almost the same, except that there is a bigger gap.
You can use two different heights there, 4mm for the metal parts and 7mm for the glass part.

Just like this.

Or like this.

Gives a perfect seal.

Now, to apply the brush seal to the other side of the door, where the hinges are located, you have to remove the door. That is easily done by unscrewing the screws on the bottom hinge and then slowly take out the door. It is recommended that you have a friend helping you with this step! 
Then just apply the seal like on the opposite side.
 
We also recommend making your cabinet empty before working, but keeping some minis inside can help keeping your adrenaline up ;)

 Now with the door back in place, we have a dust proof Detolf, yeah!


Hope you liked this tutorial and it will helping you dust proofing your cabinet! Of course you can transfer this knowledge to your own cabinet, even it is not a "Detolf".

Raffa
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Raffa

Boudica

Hello Jungle people,

today finally Boudica's Step by Step will see the light of day.
She waited long enough we'd say. During last Tuesday's Tutorial voting  it was easy to see that she would win. Thanks to everyone who voted and decided.

Without further blabla we'll get it on now.
Roman is taking over with the article in a sec and we hope you enjoy!




FOREWORD
Allright. Well this article is a step by step through the process and progress I have made painting this beautiful sculpt by spanish sculpting god Pedro Fernandez Ramos.

The box already made me hungry for warpaint

The model itself was distributed via Origen Art.
A small spanish company, with very cool unique models, but sadly the company closed in the end of 2015. Rumors say that Boudicca will be available from somewhere else in the future. Good news actually.

Great cast in grey resin


The bust itself is truely beautiful.
Not only the women sculpted is magnificant in her beauty, it is also the expression of the whole body language on this piece. Majestic, powerful and sad were my interpretations. So I decided to put her in her historical context and did read several novels, articles and stuff on her. I decided to put her in the middle of the Battle of Watling Street, where her army was defeated, just in that right moment. If you want to read more about the history lesson on her, please follow this link.

I have to somehow excuse for the difference in photo quality in this step by step. 
Some shots were made with my digital camera, some were made with my mobile's and some were made with Raffa's really good big camera.  If you prepare articles on your own too you might know how hard it is to keep track if you are in the middle of the painting process.


THE PAINTWORK
Following I will take you on a journey through painting her up the way I did. I let you know my thoughts, my steps and my ideas. If you like what you can read here and/or if you have the feeling this can provide help to your own painting please consider a small thank you in form of a jungle donation. For a coffee, a beer or a candy. Always remember, these articles take much time to be prepared and written.

Allright.

First step 
I used a Vallejo's green primer to prime the whole bust with my airbrush. Why green you might ask?
Well, for me green was the main athmospheric color I saw in my vision of her. Fighting on a non-cloudy day on a green plain of grassland. With this first step I already set my athmosphere and would stick to it. For example doing a rather warm athmosphere on a miniature you can already prime it in warm tones, same for cold tones.

I do not exactly remember the exact primer name. It was green and I know there are many, but honestly it works with all kind of greens to set the athmosphere. Do not stick yourself too much to color names if you want to learn about painting with colors.

After the green was set I used Masking Putty to cover all clothing.
I knew I would keep the clothing green after all. I explained using different masking options via the article: Masking Options.

Boudica covered in Masking Putty

Next step was using the airbrush on top of this again. This time I decided for a basic skin color and used Vallejo, as I remember right it was Brown Sand, added a little more yellow to it to have it more yellowish, added a little more red to have it a little more orange, added a little bit of white to the mix to have it brighter, added a tiny drop of blue to it to make it less saturated and finally added a small drop of green to it to stay in my overall athmospheric color. I mixed this from several tones on my wetpalette and applied it via the airbrush in thin, fine layers. About 5 to have all skin areas covered.

I painted the basic colors to the hair and the wood and leather parts. You can already see a small change in shadows in light on the hair or spear shaft. I did this while painting the basic colors, just added a tiny drop of black to the areas while painting them up. Black to metal parts.

Basic color preparations


I really love Pepa Saavedra's beautiful version of this bust and as you can see on the next photo I made my homework: I prepared prints on my workbench for inspiration. Pepa's work, some inspirational red-haired woman.

I do not like to waste my brain in the early beginnings of a paintjob to thoughts that do not fit in this stage of the progress. I do not think about how to create a beautiful blending now. I want to paint. So I took a more brighter green, that I mixed from a yellow and blue, more blueish to keep it cold, added a little red to it to make it less saturated and added white to have it brighter.

 I used this color as a glaze now and used one of my brushes I usually use for painting thin lines (good tip, good color flow!). Then I began to paint thin vertical lines to the clothing. In several layers, the glaze was not too thin, I was already able to see the first lines, then I painted more on top on areas that I would be hit by zenithal light.

I used the same color as a glaze to place some texture to the leather parts.
Just a simple prep, nothing finished yet.

fabric texture in preparation

I used a skintone again, still the one that I mixed, but this time with less green in it and started to bring back the forehead area, nose, cheekbones. I left the greenish area on her lower face. Used red and orange thin glazes to paint her middle face area. Her fist holding the spear was packed with several red glazes. If you use glazes thin you have to appyl them more often. I used some of my basic mixed skintone, added more red, more white to it to paint to her lips with an even brighter line to demonstrate the light situation. Still all is sketching.

I also increased the texture on the leather belts with more stibbling brighter tones there, painting a line here and there or intensing a crack that the work so far made visibile.



I painted her eyes. They were painted at this stage to see the character rather quick.

Intense cracks and texture on the leather


Ok, it was time to bring some more colors and a sketch of the light situation to her hair. The hair is sculpted amazingly good, but I already knew it will be a pain in the head to paint it up. I went with some more orange in my red to set first highlight areas. I say "areas" because I did not start with small highlight lines or such. I covered surfaces, prepared large areas for further work.

I also painted her eyebrows. I recommend to do this rather early as eyebrows are very important to a human painting. Without they look strange, very strange.

I also did put a wash of Army Painter's Soft Tone on top of my leather textures to pull them together.


I increased the light situation on her skin. I did not paint a lot into the shadows, as the big issue with female faces is: They are smooth. Male faces have hard shapes, females not. If you paint too strong shadows into a females face they will look dirty, weird, old and not real. My oppinion.

So I painted more into the highlights and used different colors for different face areas. Also dropped some on her arm and fist.

Painted a really dark undercoat for my bronze metal parts by using a mix from black and gold.


Here you can see the skincolors used. If you look closer you can spot where each one was used.


Not to forget the arm.

The wash pulled togehter my leather texture at this stage:


Something I had to do, but wasn't convinced of my skills was painting that tartan pattern. I can tell you I tried to avoid it for a long time, but then I just had to. I took inspiration from Pepa's work and decided to copy it, but copy it my way. Rough sketch first, details if needed later on.

The hair recieved really dark areas too by using several applications of Army Painter's Strong tone.
Oh how this hair made me already nuts.


To explain what I did there:

1. Basic surface
2. Using darker green to draw pattern. Take care of the drapery and think. I managed to be good in some areas, failed in some others in my eyes.
3. Painted the rough pattern in bright and dark areas, but using lines again to show the fabric texture
4. Cleaned it all up with the colors I used
5. Used brigther tones to paint the light situation to each pattern
6. Used Army Painter's Strong tone via airbrush and sprayed a thin layer on top to pull it together



In the end I increased the fabric texture once again with using the colors again for the lighter areas. I remember doing these steps several times to make it look like I wanted it to look. While I did step 6 some uncontrolled drops of the wash hit the clothing here and there. I did not care as I knew that I wanted to make her dirty in the end.

I also painted up her sword grop and added it.

Via Pinterest I found many red-haired woman and most of them were freckled. Ok I told myself. Let's freckle with reddish skintone dots and my brush. Loved this step.






... but thought it was too much so I went back to my skintones again and painted the freckles to look more natural instead of looking like red dots. I used glazes of my skintone varieties for this. Added a red glaze here and there to make the face look more alive.

I reworked the leather areas again and repeated steps that I have done before. Bright again, darker with a wash or a glaze. Did work on the metal parts and added a light situation to the metals. Interesting for you might be that you can find my green athmospheric color in all of it.



Worked the same on the arm.

Dot, Dot, Dot ...

Well If I would have known how crazy I might go with the warpaint and blood I would have saved some time on the freckles, but I always say keep it real, which means: In real her warpaint would be on top of her freckled face, eh?

Next steps:

- More orange to the hair, followed by more orange/sandtone yellow
- Blue Warpaint. I decided to paint it like the real thing. Using strong blue and a bigger brush I put it where I wanted it. I used a brighter blue to show the difference in the light situation even in the warpaint.
- Increased the light situation on the fabrics, both. With the use of brighter lines.
- Added blood


For the blood I went carefully, even it does not look this way. I used masking putty again to save some areas from accidents that can happen.I used GW's Blood for the Blood God for this. She looked funny.


You can see the blood in detail and warpaint


Well, in the end I can remember I spent sometime to clean up here and there, making some highlight areas more intense and stand out, but this was only detail work here and there. Every minute spent is worth the time. Finished she looked like this - bloody and gory.

The way my imagination was of her in that moment.







I hope you liked the insight into my painting mind. You can find more photos of her on Putty&Paint.
She is also on Sale, if you are interested to make this paintjob of mine yours!
Contact me via: jarhead(at)massivevoodoo.com

Have a great weekend!
If you got any questions let me know.
Of course feedback to the article is welcome.

Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes
Roman


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